i wanted to make a quick game, and here’s the prototype oalinst
I grew up with a laptop. My dad has always been a computer programmer, back since high school. He always had some hand me down laptop I could play with, normally “throw outs” from the government. Those throw outs weren’t anything to scoff at.. Where my dad worked at, they weren’t allowed to sell old tech or give it away. They HAD to throw it away: thrown away right into my lap.
That being said, I’ve learned to type on a short keystroke, tightly grouped keyboard. I’ve never had much use for a number pad so when I look for a desktop keyboard I try to find the same attributes. I currently own a Logitech Dinovo Edge keyboard and it’s beautiful. It certainly adds to the sleek office environment the modern workplace demands. I’m looking to upgrade though, to a Logitech Illuminated Bluetooth keyboard that supports 3 simultaneous bluetooth connections. That’ll make coding for Android a breeze. I always put in keyboard shortcuts to menu items anyways so to just switch over to an Android device to test a program would be quick and efficient.
A side note, Apple has the same keyboard style and if I’m not mistaken, you can’t purchase a number pad on a stock wireless Apple keyboard these days? I think it’s gone the way of the Buffalo Doritos’s.
That’s all I have to say about that.
Well last night I wrote a “greasemonkey” script to integrate Instagram into my twitter feed. I didn’t mention this in the last post, but they haven’t integrated it most likely because Instagram only supports http and not https. At any rate, I made another quick script: HackADay in my twitter feed! Yes, I’m that lazy. Now I don’t have to leave the page to show the most recent hackaday post. This actually works on any link that the @hackaday username posts.. And now that I think about it, if you change the username or take out the username check, whenever there is a link in the tweet, you can display it in an iFrame in the expanded window. I’ll post both versions below.
UPDATE: the second script here that displays any link is AWESOME!! It’s a quick and dirty hack and sometimes get’s screwed up if you use the “collapse all” button on twitter but I’ll fix that when I get a minute soon.
There are a few people on twitter that I follow that insist on posting Instagram photos. Probably because they’re big apple users, or maybe because they like the look. Either way, I hate clicking on external links in my twitter feed to just look at a picture that might not even be worth it. (Though the two people that post photos I want to see tend to use Instagram) So, 20 minutes + jQuery + me being really lazy gives us this new user script. I used Chrome with the TamperMonkey extension
Necessity might be the mother of invention, but laziness is the mother of the invention of great scripts.
Your remote has two main features:
- send commands to addressable nodes you’ve installed at work, home, and in the car
- send a ‘beacon’ every 10 seconds or so that lets all receivers in the area know that you’re around.
To set the stage,
let’s first explain the relationship between the remote and the receivers. The receivers are small devices that you can place throughout your life to do specific tasks electronically controlled by the remote. You can turn on a light, change the volume on your stereo, or even unlock a door. Each receiver has an address, and is constantly listening for the remote to say it’s address. If the address of the device is not in an incoming packet, the following data packet is discarded (or repeated when in a mesh network). Each remote also has a device address, so you can differentiate between more than one remote in a multi-remote system.
A friend and I are trying to make a signal analyzer similar to the Huntron Tracker 2000 and why not make a prototype with the Pi? We made our own Pi to breadboard adapter, and we chained 2 shift registers together (what we need for our project). LED’s are wired up for now just to show us what’s happening. As for programming, this has certainly been an adventure these last 2 nights brushing up on my C and learning python. I am of course no pro, but so far I’ve made a very basic GUI that sets 16 bits and with the C python module I made, shifts them out over GPIO. Continue reading
I signed up for the Deconstruction contest over at http://thedeconstruction.org/
I did the Redbull challenge a while back and made a sweet cannon. I’m doing this on my own this time (basically did the first time)
My team name is Solus Ruptor and that stands for “alone, the one who breaks or violates”
Good luck to all the teams!
As the Director of Research and Development (In a 4 person company, I can choose my own title) I often get to make fun little projects with what I can find at the local hardware store. This is actually the second itteration of the recording device, the first being a nature cam. The nature cam was nice, but to support it’s low power nature, the camera would only wake up with the assistance of an IR sensor. The stuff we were recording was too far away, so I needed image based motion detection. We got this nice little 1 channel DVR that came with a pinhole camera, cut up some floppy drive case and made a mount. Turned out OK, but now I’m working on a voltage sense device (probably msp430 based) that will turn off the device when the lead acid battery get’s too low (which will be supplemented with a 2W solar cell). The current project only requires video during the day, so it’ll also turn off after a certain time, and turn on again in the morning just to save a little more battery. I’ll throw up another post if this project goes any further.
Someone at Farnell contacted me a while back to do a product review, and I thought the Tenma SMD Component Tester looked pretty cool. First thoughts right after I took it out of the package was that it was a good size. Certainly not tiny, but it fit in your hand well. I put it through it’s paces, trying every SMD type component I had and everything worked well. The display is easy to read, and the values were all accurate (more accurate than my 5% tolerant parts I’m sure). The description over at Newark is deceiving. Actually, it’s just wrong. Their values say “Resistance Measuring Range: 600ohm to 60Mohm” and while that is the Range of the Range so to say, That’s not the range. Of course this meter goes down to 0ohm, but it’s in the 600ohm range I suppose. One major issue I had with the device right away is the probes. When you push in the probes, the first thing it does is go right into Voltage Mode. It doesn’t give you the option to do any of the other functions. I was looking forward to using this for all sorts of capacitance sensing, but it knew that the probes were pushed in… When I took it apart, I found there was a small button that was pressed in when the leads were in. With a little modification, I can now use the capacitance measurement with the test leads. Why did they disallow this? Was it because they couldn’t guarantee calibration? I measured a few components with my Fluke meter and the new Tenma meter and it seems to be spot on, so I’ll just use it with a grain of salt for a while and see how things ago. Again, Thanks to Farnell for sending me this cool little meter.